UAE Postdeparture Paper - Section 1

Western media often portrays the UAE, most especially Dubai, in a positive manner. For those who generalize about the Middle East, the UAE may seem like another country that oppresses women or cultivates Islamic fundamentalism. Yet the UAE is one of, if not the most, progressive nations in the region. I have relatives that have traveled to and live in the UAE so I had a relatively enlightened view of the country and I tried to suppress any preconceived notions. This travel course allowed us to experience a vastly different culture not just as tourists, but as insiders on many occasions. Several important cultural themes were evident in most aspects of UAE society: education and women in the work force, religion, family orientation, mixed feelings about Dubai’s rate of growth, and “Middle Eastern time.”

1. What is your interpretation of the UAE culture and how has it influenced you?

The UAE has come a long way since the 1960s. The nation has transformed from a compilation of tribes to a united state of seven emirates. A country that was once a barren desert and palm huts has transformed into a hotspot for tourism, economic growth, and social change within the last decade. Meeting students from Zayed University was very informative. It was as though they were Simmons’ equivalent in the UAE; although in UAE culture, segregated education is the norm rather than the exception. Some citizens of the UAE still hold traditional beliefs. These beliefs include ideas such as: women should stay in the home, women do not need to be educated, and mrn will provide everything so the women should not work. Many students at Zayed are the first generation in their families to receive formal education and training. As female college students, these women are crafting new social norms.

Zayed displayed many of the attributes that Simmons holds dear, most especially leadership and personal strength. Many Zayed students were driven individuals with high aspirations for what they hoped to accomplish in the future. Others, like me, appreciated the opportunities afforded by education but were still unsure what future path to take. Still others wanted to be educated so they could be better mothers, and did not aspire to have powerful careers or work particularly hard in college. Some of the faculty members thought the latter trend would change in a few more years. The most striking feeling upon meeting and conversing with the students was the thought “Wow. They are so much like me.” I realized that subconsciously I had expected them to be drastically different.

Religion is more important to daily life in the UAE than it is for most people in the USA. The visit to Jumeirah Mosque was inspiring for a few reasons. First, the presenters gave good insight into the significance of Islam in a Middle Eastern culture. Second, this is where we first met Khulood, who became an excellent resource for the remainder of the trip. At a discussion lunch at Simmons last year, a Muslim woman said to the room “Islam is not just a religion; it is a way of life.” The tenants of Islam affect all aspects of society in Muslim cultures. Many women in the UAE choose to wear abayas and shaylas to appear modest outside the home. Modesty is a very important virtue in the culture and women must be fully covered in front of anyone who is not in the family. Ohood, a student I spoke with, explained that people do not date very often and if they do, the man is often a family friend or someone the parents know well.

Family collectivism is strong in the UAE. Ohood told me that working hours are a key factor when students are considering job possibilities. She is determined to pursue a career when she graduates rather than immediately marrying, a trend which is gradually increasing but still not common. However, she said that in general, marriage and family are always one’s top priority. The job a woman chooses to take often must be approved by (male) members of her family. It was interesting to hear that it is not uncommon for fathers or husbands to accompany a woman on a job interview, to make sure it is a safe and comfortable place to work. This kind of environment is slightly less fostered in the US, where subtle sexual harassment and discrimination against women still exists in the workplace.

A couple days after arriving, we went on a safari ride in the desert. The ride began with "dune bashing" in Land Crusiers. Then we arrived at a Bedouin-style camp. After riding camels and taking pictures, I wandered over to the camel farm. As I took pictures through the fence, a man beckoned me inside. He began talking to me about the camels and how he owns the camel farm and the desert safari business. He was eager to take my picture touching the camels and even made me feed them and taste fresh camel’s milk. He asked me where I was from, where I was staying and why I was here. I told how our class had traveled from Boston to learn about cross-cultural leadership.

He began to talk to me about Dubai and how quickly it has changed and how busy it has become. He used to live in Dubai but he chose to move out of the city as he disdains the traffic and fast pace of life. He began his safari business as well as the camel farm. He spoke of his love of animals and the need to preserve cultural heritage. He wanted to begin this business so that people will learn about and experience the Bedouin lifestyle, and so tourists could meet "real Arabs". We commiserated about how Dubai has grown so quickly that most of the native culture has been lost in the dust. However, it is a striking paradox that although he disdains the fast-paced ultra modern city, he is more than happy to capitalize on the tourism it attracts.

It seems that people in Dubai have mixed feelings about the changes in the city. When they say "I am from Dubai" or "I have lived in Dubai for 30 years", they say it with pride. Yet as the city continues to grow and prosper, some people begin to miss their old lives when they were not stuck in traffic for three hours to travel 5-10 miles. The leadership director posed this question to a few students the other night: Is Dubai an Arab city? This is a hard question to answer, and something that many people often wonder. Mosques are present in every neighbor and the melodious call to prayer rings out five times daily. However, most streets have American and European stores and chain restaurants: Starbucks, Claire's, Zara, Chili's, and Pizza Hut to name a few. Most people speak excellent English, which is surprising, and almost 70 percent of the residents of Dubai are not even Emirati!

I cannot imagine the inner turmoil I would feel if the town I had grown up in had suddenly turned into a tourist attraction in just a few years. It seems like residents of the UAE had varying opinions on Dubai’s fast growth. Most of the students at Zayed in Dubai as well as the citizens we encountered in the city were very proud and excited about Dubai’s growth and its future. Yet people outside the city, in Al Ain and in Abu Dhabi, are more hesitant to exclaim about the rate of growth. Another observation that struck me was the type of clothing sold in the malls. I knew that Dubai was a huge shopping center, but I was not expecting to see all the flimsy dresses and shirts in stores like Forever 21 and Zara. I was also shocked that some of the stores were playing American rap music and reggaeton, most of which have very dirty lyrics. This observation made me wonder where and what is the market for this type of clothing and do the shoppers understand the lyrics they are hearing on the radio? The Western malls and the environment they foster seemed like a cultural clash in an Arab society.

The reactions of foreign faculty compared to the students’ reactions were the most interesting to observe. Although most faculty members enjoy Dubai immensely, they are critical about its rapid expansion without consideration for the environment or sustainability of the growth, resources, and exploited workers. I especially appreciated Ron’s honesty as he had been living there the longest.

The most frustrating cultural difference was learning to deal with “Middle Eastern time” on a daily basis. I am very organized and somewhat of a perfectionist. I am constantly writing lists and notes in my planner and I always follow through on an engagement. I knew to expect the ambiguity because Arab societies score low for uncertainty avoidance, meaning they do not place as much importance on structure and time commitments as people in the US. These societies tolerate change and are more group-oriented versus our more rigid, individualistic business world. It was unfortunate that some of the successful women we had planned to see could not meet with us. However, improvisation must be another integral part of UAE culture and many of the impromptu discussions with faculty and staff were equally informative.

There were many differences between American and Emirati culture. Yet I think the similarities stayed with me more. I appreciated the hospitality and honesty of the people we spoke with, and I enjoyed getting a glimpse of a culture amidst transition.